The Time+Tide team Picks their Holy Trinity brands
Time+TideWhat are the horological Holy Trinity brands? The Holy Trinity of watchmaking – Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin – has been pretty well-defined for the best part of 50 years now. Each of these brands has existed for what seems an eternity, with AP being the “youngest”, founded in 1875, and VC the oldest at an astonishing 269 years since its founding. It’s not like this trio has just sat around twiddling their thumbs since then, either. They’re responsible for the most groundbreaking, complicated, expensive, exclusive, and *insert any other superlative here* watches in existence.
Whether we’re talking about saving high-end Swiss watchmaking in the ’70s, being instrumental in developing unique complications, or simply making the most complicated watches ever, it’ll be one of these three. But what if we didn’t define these three as the Holy Trinity? Or, what if we were to come up with a new definition today? Rather than just one of us voicing their opinions, we thought it would be best to have the entire editorial team weigh in, and define whatever Holy Trinity they wish to believe in.
Borna’s pick: Casio, Rolex, A. Lange & Söhne
How would you define the watchmaking Holy Trinity? For me, it’s a trio of brands that are consistently putting out high-quality products (in their respective price points, of course), and are able to sustain a constant level of production. Sure, there are brands and artisans out there capable of finer finishing and more ridiculous complications than what AP, PP, and VC get up to, but there are very few that can do that at the scale of those three.
My three picks do just that, but in their own, different ways. Casio (and by extension G-Shock which is my actual pick) is one of the rare brands that watch enthusiasts pretty much universally agree upon. Sure, recent price hikes have been met with some criticism, but by and large, an F91W or DW5600 are probably the cheapest watches you can buy that are truly deserving of being called icons.
Yes, I picked Rolex – sue me. I know you can’t get one at retail, I know that they’re insultingly expensive on the secondary market, and I know that there are stereotypes affixed to those who obsess over their Rolex. And yet, you cannot deny that Rolex’s scale of production is impressive, especially considering the level of precision and numerical output. Say what you want, but the Crown is very much deserving of this spot.
A. Lange & Söhne is perhaps the most in the spirit of what people generally accept to be Holy Trinity-worthy, and not the most revolutionary pick, but whatever. Though the brand ceased operation in 1948 (partly thanks to an air raid that destroyed the Glashütte factory), its 1990 revival very much put it back on track to its pre-war course, crafting the finest German timepieces imaginable. From the most basic, two-handed Saxonia Thin to the avant-garde Pour le Merite and Zeitwerk models, the level of execution is phenomenal. Most impressively, the brand has managed to build this cache without a hype, integrated-bracelet sports watch – until very recently, that is.
Jamie’s pick: Tudor, Nomos, Grand Seiko
If we’re using Borna’s definition of watchmaking’s Holy Trinity – where both value for money (as spurious of a concept that is) and consistent production are key – I think these three brands represent the best value for money in luxury watchmaking (or entry-level luxury, at least) bar none. Unlike AP, Patek, and VC, this trio of Tudor, Nomos, and Grand Seiko don’t share a common geographical origin or long, storied histories. What they do share, however, is a spirit of innovation and design flair combined with comparative affordability. I can’t claim to have been the first person to group these three brands – it was American author, satirist, and noted watch geek Gary Shteyngart who first came up with the label of “the new Holy Trinity” for this trio back in 2020. In 2024, this label is even more apt.
Tudor, Nomos and Grand Seiko are also real insider brands, in a way. I distinctly remember my first Watches and Wonders, where I kept a close eye on what attendees were wearing on their wrists. The two things I learned are that even in the beating heart of the watch industry, where people are most clued-in, most W&W attendees wear Rolex… But the journalists covering the fair? They mostly wore Tudor and Grand Seiko, with a small smattering of Nomoses (Nomos? Nomosi?). Read into that what you will.
Tudor is an obvious one. “The people’s Rolex”, Tudor is what Rolex was decades ago: well-made, elevated tool watches with honest if not accessible pricing (and availability). Tudor is the modern benchmark when it comes to mechanical watchmaking, it’s that simple – especially when it comes to price positioning. Modern Tudor has also done much to differentiate itself from its more famous sibling, with moves like chasing Master Chronometer certification for its watches; utilising case materials like forged carbon and 925 silver that Rolex has never touched; pursuing collaborations with racing teams and armed forces… It’s an absolute dynamo.
Nomos is perhaps a less obvious pick, but again: this is a brand that offers nicely finished in-house movements, exceptional build quality and a cohesive, distinctive if understated aesthetic. They’re the ultimate “quality basic” watch, yet are also quietly innovative, with designs like the Zürich world timer and Tangomat GMT offering novel takes on time-honoured complications. Many brands are producing Bauhaus-inspired watches but none are as exquisite as Nomos.
And what can I say about Grand Seiko that hasn’t already been said before? Few brands at any price point come close to the build quality and refinement of a Grand Seiko. From technical innovations like Spring Drive movements to meticulous finishing techniques like Zaratsu polishing, Grand Seiko’s repertoire is expansive and extremely compelling. Grand Seiko embarrasses established Swiss players – including the “old” Holy Trinity – with the level of refinement they can offer at such a competitive price point.
Zach’s pick: F.P. Journe, Akrivia, Roger W. Smith
When I was first prompted for my candidates in this T+T Picks segment, I initially scoffed at it. I mean, the Holy Trinity is not some evolving thing. The dream team is the dream team. It’s not an evolving roster of the USA’s best basketball players, it’s the fixed roster of the 1992 United States men’s Olympic basketball team. So, in my view, Patek, AP, and Vacheron are and will always be the Holy Trinity. That being said, I’ll play along.
If the term never existed and was to be applied to a trio of brands today, I would have to select F.P. Journe, Akrivia (or any watch that comes from someone with the last name Rexhepi), and Roger. W. Smith. I’m not going to belabour this one. When watches from these three brands hit the auction block, collectors get a stiff… Balance cock. And for good reason. These three watchmakers make some of the finest and most coveted watches in the world. In some respects, these three brands produce watches the actual Holy Trinity wishes they did – hence my picks. It’s true independent horology that will have you thinking holy sh*t once you hold one.
Russell’s pick: Swatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre, F.P. Journe
What? Swatch? A Holy Trinity brand? Yes. Hear me out here. There is method to my madness. I agree with Zach, the original Holy Trinity is un-f*ck-able with, they are there for a reason and I wouldn’t want to challenge their position. But I love a hypothetical and here I am looking at the brands I think have made the biggest impact in watchmaking as we know it today. And you can’t tell the story of modern watchmaking without including Swatch. The brand saved the Swiss industry, brought watches to millions of people, and added a much needed element of fun and creativity to an industry that is often accused of being a tad dry. This doesn’t mean I agree with and love everything Swatch has done, I wish the brand was a little more eco-friendly as pretty much all of their watches one day end up in landfill. But the buzz they are able to produce is unmatched by any other. Just go and watch our many videos on the Moonswatch launches if you want to see that in action.
I don’t know if I need to do so much convincing on the next two brands. Jaeger-LeCoultre has been known as the watchmakers’ watchmaker forever. Heck, most of the original Holy Trinity brands best watches have movements made by JLC. Exhibit A being the calibre 920 which is found in the original 222, Nautilus and Royal Oak. Need I say more? Probably not, but one final point comes in the flipping good shape of the Reverso. A watch I never thought I would like until I held one for the first time and now that I have discovered the incredible diversity that can be found in this one shape, I am smitten.
Finally, I am going to have to agree with my esteemed colleague Zach Blass on this, F.P. Journe deserves his spot on this Holy Trinity brands list. His work follows directly from the likes of George Daniels, Antide Janvier, and Breguet to create some of the most beautiful watches being produced today. His watches are near impeachable, and his philosophy is flawless. Everything that has the name F.P. Journe on it is exactly how François-Paul imagined it, whether it is a watch that tells the time with an animated, armoured hand, or the 12 boutiques he has around the world. It all stays true to his motto, Invenit et Fecit.