Seiko teams up with Porter Classic for the Laurel-inspired Presage SPB449
Borna BošnjakMore often than not, collaborations between watch and fashion brands result in the latter leaving an obvious touch on the timekeeping creation in question. This often draws criticism, as the majority of watch aficionados prefer less-obvious branding, but every once in a while, a watch x fashion brand collab goes just right. Seiko is no stranger to limited editions in general, but also quite successful at collaborating with the likes of Rowing Blazers. For its latest limited edition, Seiko is partnering with Porter Classic, a name instantly connected with quality in the mind of Japanese fashion enthusiasts. Not to be confused with the Yoshida & Co. Porter line of bags, Porter Classic was founded by a second-generation member of the original Yoshida family along with his son in 2007, and focuses on high-end features synonymous with Japanese sartorial brands such as indigo-dyed fabrics with boro patterns and sashiko stitching. The result of this collab is the Seiko Presage SPB449 Craftsmanship Series, featuring a black enamel dial and diminutive case inspired by the Seiko Laurel of the early 20th century.
The dial
The main draw for any of Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship Series models is the dial. Unlike the SPB445 Arita Porcelain model from earlier this year, the SPB449 Porter Classic sports a deep, black enamel number. Combined with the box-domed shape of the sapphire crystal, the convex dial has some really lovely distortion akin to actual vintage watches. Everything’s quite legible given the highly contrasting white-on-black printing, but you’ll notice an extra hand compared to the original, three-handed Laurel. Rather than housing the small seconds, the sub-dial at 6 is a 24-hour indicator. This is actually an evolution of the last Laurel-inspired release, the SPB359, which also featured a power reserve indicator to the left of the centre pinion. It’s a step in the right direction to decluttering the dial, though I would’ve liked to see it applied to the text at 12 o’clock, too.
The case
Speaking of the SPB359, that was a rather large (considering its inspiration) watch at 37.5mm. The Presage Porter Classic slims down even more to just 35mm, with design touches that land it right in that era when watches started to make their way onto wrists. I envision that 35mm will be the lower limit for most people out there, though for fans of vintage like myself, this is a bit of a sweet spot. The bulbous onion crown and articulating wire lugs are just icing on the cake, though the latter will limit the style of strap you can use with the watch.
With a lug-to-lug of 37mm, you needn’t worry about any overhanging bits, though keep in mind that the included cordovan straps are quite stiff out of the box, and will take time to form to the wrist (more on them shortly). The biggest potential asterisk when it comes to the SPB449 is its thickness, sitting at 12.3mm. Given its other dimensions being so small, it wears really noticeably on the wrist, and sits a little too proud for my liking. Though the modern construction does result in considerable height, it also ensures 50 metres of water resistance, which is certainly not guaranteed with an original Laurel.
The strap
As I mentioned before, the straps are quite stiff out of the box, but that’s where my list of complains with them ends. The style is quirky and fun, and gives the look of a pseudo-bund strap, while being made of high-quality cordovan leather. Both a brown and a black strap are included, fitted to smoothly shaped steel pin buckles.
The movement
Beneath a screw-down caseback with a fairly basic engraving hides the Seiko 6R5H movement, introduced with last year’s SPB441/SART001 Kintaro Hattori limited edition. It’s based on Seiko’s long-standing 6R line, and is one of the 3Hz variants, with automatic winding and a three-day power reserve. There’s little to complain about performance-wise, as the base 6R models are proven, solid performers, but there is something to say about its inclusion of a central running seconds and 24-hour indicator. The brand actually doesn’t have a small seconds variant to call upon from its current arsenal, and the 6R5H makes sense considering it’s one of two Seiko calibres befitting of this price point with any sort of sub-dial to speak of.
The verdict
The SPB449 largely succeeds in its intended purpose. The black enamel dial is a stunner, especially with the way it flows around the pinions. It’s a small, well-crafted watch that evokes the details of the brand’s first-ever wristwatch, and collaborates with a niche, but well-loved Japanese brand in an unobtrusive way. I would’ve loved to see Seiko finally ditch excessive dial text and the superfluous 24-hour indicator that often marrs its Laurel re-editions – and a slimmer case would be nice too.
Seiko mentions that this collaboration came about from Katsuyuki Yoshida’s (Porter Classic’s co-founder) love of pocket watches and early 20th century Seiko designs. I’m inclined to believe this, as there are basically no features of the SPB449 that would point me towards this being a collaborative piece with a Japanese sartorial brand, apart from the obvious caseback inscription. And truth be told, this is a good thing, as it allows all the good elements of this Laurel-inspired design to shine, without feeling weighed down by any need to justify the collaboration. Having said that, I’d welcome an inky indigo blue enamel dial with open arms.
Seiko Presage SPB449 Craftsmanship Series Porter Classic Collaboration Limited Edition pricing and availability
The Seiko x Porter Classic Presage SPB449 is a limited edition of 500 pieces, and becomes available in November 2024. Price: US$2,300
| Brand | Seiko |
| Model | Presage Craftsmanship Series Porter Classic Collaboration Limited Edition |
| Reference | SPB449 |
| Case Dimensions | 35mm (D) x 12.3mm (T) x 37mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Box-domed sapphire front |
| Dial | Black enamel |
| Bracelet | Black and brown cordovan leather straps, steel pin buckle |
| Movement | 6R5H, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, 24-hour indicator |
| Availability | 500 pieces, November 2024 |
| Price | US$2,300 |