THE HOME OF WATCH CULTURE

11 of the best 34mm watches for smaller wrists, or those reminiscing the good old times

11 of the best 34mm watches for smaller wrists, or those reminiscing the good old times

Buffy Acacia

The art of the small watch has definitely come to be appreciated more and more in recent years, with a focus not only on smaller diameters, but lug-to-lug measurements as an essential factor for a comfortable fit. That said, there still seems to be a fear that dipping below the 36mm mark automatically takes it out of a masculine category, and this has led to severe underrepresentation of great smaller watches. Even if your wrist isn’t smaller than average, sometimes it can be nice to just wear something that doesn’t fill up every available millimetre of skin, so here are the best modern 34mm watches that anyone can wear.

Swatch Neon Hot Racer

Swatch Neon Hot Racer

Although the Swatch Neon Hot Racer is a fantastic and bombastic choice, it won’t be to everyone’s taste and it won’t be around forever. As such, you can treat this initial entry as a placeholder for any 34mm Swatch of your choice. They may be quartz-powered and cased in plastic, but there are few watches which can recreate the expressive power of a Swatch which resonates with you. Whether it’s plain black or rainbow, as a gift or for yourself, a Swatch will always scratch the itch. The 34mm case is lightweight and comfortable, so it will never be a hassle to accessorise. Price: US$120

Timex Marlin

Timex Marlin Hand Wound Wrist Shot

You could go on forever about why the Timex Marlin is such a perfect watch, but the short version is that it captures everything great about 1960s watch design in a truly affordable package. I’d even go as far as saying it’s one of the most successful vintage watch reissues for its attention to detail, and how much it feels like it’s time-travelled directly from a ‘60s department store. The hand-wound movement provides that instant connection with its mechanics, and despite some conjecture over its origins, the consensus on its reliability is mostly positive. Plus, Timex is an important brand, and its budget-friendly status is just as important now as it was then. US$209

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Skydiving SRP841J

Seiko Presage SRP841J

While it may be labelled as a “ladies'” watch, there’s nothing about the Seiko Presage SRP841J that limits its audience beyond its 34mm case and delightfully short lugs. The pale blue dial is fanned with fine grooves giving an almost hypnotic texture, while the sharpened dauphine hands and faceted applied indices grant a real air of sophistication. The needle-shaped seconds hand is also blue(d) for added class, and the bracelet uses solid links with a butterfly clasp. The 4R35 won’t break any records for its performance, but it has proven itself to be an reliable and affordable calibre. Price: US$450

Marathon General Purpose Mechanical 34mm

Marathon General Purpose Mechanical 34mm

Designed as a direct reproduction of field watches issued to the U.S. military throughout the 1980s, the Marathon GPM 34mm is perfect for those who are seeking a bulletproof, tactical vibe. Not only is the watch available with a variety of matte case finishes across the black, olive, and tan spectrums, but the dial also features H3 tritium gas tubes on the indices and hands for spectacular after-dark visibility. The black dial is laid out in typical field watch fashion, with both regular and 24-hour numerals, plus the H3 and radiation symbol are printed to denote its luminous qualities. Keeping prices accessible and performance reliable is the Seiko NH35 movement that powers the watch — a tried-and-tested fan favourite. Price: US$450

Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer

Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto 34mm

Hamilton’s catalogue is absolutely packed with iconic watches, whether they’ve adorned the wrists of Hollywood heroes or golden-age celebrities. So, it’s understandable that the Jazzmaster Performance series is overlooked because of its more classical and versatile attitude. Really, it’s those qualities which make it such an attractive watch, because you can use it as an accessory to your own personality rather than basing your personality on that of the watch. The sharp, brushed lugs embody a cheeky bit of 1960s sci-fi contouring without ever losing its sophisticated charm, and the wide range of dial colours ensures there’s something for everyone. Price: US$1,045, from the Time+Tide Shop

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph 1

There’s nothing that says small watches have to be cute, and the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph models in 34mm cases can be just as brutish as their larger cousins. Although the polished bezels may have a touch more refinement than some, the rugged shape is backed up by a full 200 metres of water resistance and a screw-down crown. The 40.6mm lug-to-lug length meets a 9.7mm thickness for an easily gender-neutral wearing experience, and there are a variety of dial styles with individual personalities. The wildest of these has to be the Polar Blue version which is more of a sparkling turquoise, while the sunburst blue reference is definitely the most versatile. The TH50-01 quartz movement is solar-powered, so its accuracy is reliable and you don’t need to worry about battery changes. Price: US$2,150

Tudor Clair de Rose

Tudor Clair de Rose 34mm

Whether Tudor intended it or not, the blue-dial editions of the Clair de Rose harness elements of the Breguet Marine and Cartier Ballon Bleu collections, but undoubtedly merged with Tudor’s character. The 34mm reference with a full array of Roman numerals is interrupted only by the date wheel at 3 o’clock, and the central sector is adorned with a hypnotising fan texture. The calibre T601 may only be based on an ETA 2824-2 or a Sellita SW200-1 and not in-house or COSC-certified, however Tudor’s reputation for quality and accuracy can’t be ignored. Price: US$2,725

Cartier Santos-Dumont

Cartier Santos Dumont 34mm

Honouring the first ever purpose-built pilot’s watch is the Cartier Santos, which may not be super sporty by today’s standards yet still captures that spirit of adventure. The square case that flows gently into stubby lugs is only made more industrious from its highly-polished square bezel, complete with exposed screws that give it a real technical edge. But while the case is incredibly tough-looking, the Roman numerals on the silver sunburst square dial lend a delicateness that perfectly balances the watch’s needs. Consider the Cartier name printed above the pinion, and you’ve got a watch that can fit in any situation and with any outfit. OK, so technically the Santos isn’t offered in 34mm, but the ‘Small’ size of 27.5mm has a similar wrist presence because of its square shape. Price: US$3,900

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34mm Black

It shouldn’t come as any surprise that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34 features on this list, as the design is so universally perfect it works at any size. The Oyster case and bracelet is instantly recognisable as a quality product even by those who know nothing about watches, and the dial is simplistic, bold, and elegant. The sunburst finishing is consistently exquisite across multiple colour options including black, silver, blue, and pink, giving you the opportunity to match a tone to your personality. The calibre 2232 is an automatic movement with a 55-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate, complete with a silicon hairspring for magnetic resistance and improved performance. Price: US$5,800

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 34mm

Omega aqua terra 34mm black dial 1

Omega’s Seamaster Aqua Terra has gone through a lot of evolutions since its introduction in 2002, but 20 years has definitely given Omega a lot of time to perfect the line’s unique blend of classy style with rugged performance. In a 34mm case water-resistant to 150 metres, the flowing curves of Omega’s signature lyre lugs are perfectly complemented by faceted ovular hour markers and a symmetrical date window at 6 o’clock. The handset features one dauphine hour hand and one arrowhead minutes hand to further blend the sports and dress worlds, while a huge variety of gorgeous sunburst dial colours are available to fit into your collection, with the above black being released recently. In addition, there are also two-tone versions with Sedna Gold accents and a new take on the classic Wave Dial pattern. Price: US$6,600

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Frosted Gold

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Frosted White Gold 34mm

Does the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak need any introduction? It’s a watch which changed the face of Swiss watchmaking forever, and its legacy is beyond dispute. The first model in 1972 was already considered “Jumbo” at 39mm in diameter, so the fact that it’s now produced in 34mm references is wonderful news to those with small wrists. Integrated bracelet watches tend to wear larger anyway, so the reduced size may lead to a better wearing experience. There are plenty of models made in materials like ceramic, steel, and various tones of gold, but it’s hard to get past the stippled beauty of the frosted white gold model with its ice-blue Grande Tapisserie dial. Price: US$60,000

T+T Timeless Pick: Philippe Dufour Simplicity

philippe dufour simplicity 34mm
Philippe Dufour Simplicity 34mm, number 14. Image courtesy of Sotheby’s

There are some venerable icons on this list, but there is only one watch that could take the timeless pick spot, and Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity is more than deserving. The diminutive size came at a strange time, releasing in the year 2000 when the trend of the 47mm Panerai was in full swing. Nevertheless, the obsessive hand-finishing continued to garner fans, the Simplicity was discontinued in 2012, and is among the rarest and most desirable watches of the modern era. In the rare event a Simplicity does come up for auction, prices are in the hundreds of thousands of dollars, if not more, one recently selling on Loupe This for US$500,000. Price: >US$500,000