Did Patek just MoonSwatch its mechanical Aquanaut Travel Time?
Zach BlassIf quartz isn’t cool, why didn’t Patek get called out for this? In case you missed it, the renowned brand reprised its Aquanaut Travel Time at this year’s Watches and Wonders with the 5269R. As expected for any new Patek Philippe, many have already joined a waitlist to pick one up. And, even more expected, Mark Wahlberg has already snagged one – his wrist always the first to debut many novelties in the wild.
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But here is the twist: this ticking model ain’t a deadbeat, it’s a straight-up quartz model. And this is not your Élégante Journe quartz with all kinds of sexy twists, a retro-futuristic Girard-Perregaux take, or super-advanced Grand Seiko 9F quartz. This appears to be plain, stock-standard quartz. In fact, in some respects, dare I say, Patek Philippe has effectively self-made an expensive clone of its mechanical Travel Time Aquanaut – which is an absolute heater and fan-favourite.
Another way to look at it – while not encased in plastic, Patek just MoonSwatched its own mechanical watch. Functionally speaking, you have a traditional Speedmaster, and the MoonSwatch offers a vastly less expensive and quartz-driven Speedmaster (albeit not in precious metal). So why is there no quartz cringe or pushback? Does this mean quartz has crossed its Rubicon and it’s back on the table, or is it a case of rule for thee but not for me?
Patek Philippe describes the new Travel Time as eloquently as you’d expect. “Equipped with an exclusive quartz caliber, this travel watch with its ‘contemporary casual chic’ style is distinguished by its Travel Time display with a practical and discreet crown-operated setting system.”
There is no denying that the 5269R will be far more accurate and reliable than its mechanical equivalent, and comparing quartz apples to mechanical apples, at US$35,350 it is close to half the price of the mechanical 5164G (US$63,040). Aside from the difference in movement technology, the 5269R is 2mm smaller in diameter and 1.5mm thinner. It also does not have pushers on the 9 o’clock side of the case to engage the complication, instead, instead using the crown for all adjustments.
To be clear, Time+Tide has never been about quartz snobbery. There is nothing wrong with a quartz-driven wristwatch. That being said, we were all surprised to see that the horological hooligans did not come out in full force and (wrongly) quartz-shame the 5269R. While quartz Aquanauts are nothing new, it is surprising, within the context of Patek Philippe, to see a complication watch using a quartz calibre.
The movement is hidden beneath a solid caseback, but looking at the image of the movement, it has been finished to a standard befitting of the Holy Trinity brand. So, there is a case to be made that it should have been exhibited. With some commenters noting that, with a quartz movement and a solid caseback, the watch is ripe for counterfeiting (why I made the comment about Patek Philippe cloning its own watch), there is a valid concern there.
The question is whether Patek has a sense of internal quartz-shame, choosing not to exhibit the movement of the 5269R, though I’m not sure that’s the case. Patek Philippe did play a significant role in the famed Beta 21 quartz technology, and well past the quartz crisis there has been a resurgence of appreciation for quartz technology. Had Patek gone the Journe route and crafted the calibre in solid gold, it would have perhaps yielded less confusion or offered a greater sense of Patek-level luxury and definitely been worthy of exhibition (along with being harder to fake). That being said, that would have almost certainly significantly increased the price.
To bring back the main point front and centre, the Aquanaut 5269R is not a bad watch by any means. It is simply unexpected and not in alignment with what the most prized watchmaker in the world typically produces. And with watch snobs, who commonly covet Patek timepieces, the little to no pushback upon its release – rather an immediate queue of interested buyers – begged the question I stated earlier: does this mean quartz has crossed its Rubicon and it’s back on the table, or is it one rule for Patek and another for the rest? If you haven’t done so already, leave a comment on the reel embedded above, and let us know your thoughts.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5269R pricing and availability
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5269R is, for lack of a better phrase, available now. Price: US$35,350
| Brand | Patek Philippe |
| Model | Aquanaut Travel Time |
| Reference | 5269R |
| Case Dimensions | 38.8mm (D) x 8.7mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k rose gold |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | Opaline blue-grey |
| Strap | Composite blue-grey material, rose gold folding clasp |
| Movement | E 23‑250 S FUS 24H, in-house, quartz |
| Power Reserve | N/A |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, 12 hour hand, day/night indicator |
| Availability | Available for enquiries |
| Price | US$35,350 |