12 of the best mechanical watches under $1,000 that define what a value proposition is

Borna Bošnjak

For many watch lovers, the pursuit of getting as much value for money as possible is one of the most exciting parts of the watch purchasing process – sometimes even more than clicking “order now”. For those of you looking for inspiration, or simply dreading the search, here’s a good place to start with some of the best, yet also affordable, mechanical watches currently on the market. Whether you’re looking for a unique microbrand design, an established big name on the dial, or just want something incredibly well-made for less than US$100, we’ve thought of it all. Of course, once you obtain your coveted piece, be sure to use our tips to look after your mechanical watch, and understand the cost of servicing, as it can be a big factor at the entry-level price point.

Steeldive SD1970 6105 Turtle Automatic

We begin with an unlikely entrant on this list, though once you hear the specs of this thing, I’d be surprised if you don’t go out and get one. Seiko NH35 movement, lumed ceramic bezel insert, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, screw-down caseback and crown ensuring 200 metres of water resistance, all in a 43.8mm x 46.8mm steel case that’s proven to wear well on many wrists. It’s available in green, black or blue, and you can even opt for a sterile black dial, should you not be a fan of the Steeldive logo. And you’ll have enough change from a Benjamin to pick up another strap or two. Sure, the design might not be original, but in this cost of living crisis, don’t mind if I do. You can purchase the SD1970 directly from Steeldive, or scour AliExpress for an even better deal. Price: US$85

Seagull 1963 38mm

Up next is another budget champion, though certainly a better-known one. The Seagull 1963 chrono has a storied history, originally developed for military use in the ’60s. The ST1901 calibre that powers it is a Chinese-made version of a Venus 175, courtesy of the Swiss selling their machinery and designs to China, and is the most affordable and widespread budget mechanical chronograph out there – with a column wheel, blue(d) screws, and swan neck regulator option. It’s available in multiple sizes, too, though my recommendation is the original 38mm. For the best deals, AliExpress is your friend once again, though I’d advise doing your research to make sure you’re getting the piece that you want, and you may just discover the Seagull’s interesting backstory along the way. Price: ~US$130

Boldr Venture

Singapore’s Boldr Supply Co. has one mission – make affordable, adventure-ready watches. The most affordable in the brand’s range is also one of the most compelling, combining a titanium case, Seiko NH35 movement, and sapphire crystal for a touch over US$300. Compact dimensions of 38mm x 44mm mean the Venture will fit most wrists, and even the lume is better than you’d expect given all the other specs and price point. The Blue Fuel colourway impressed Jamie, but you can opt for the Sandstorm or Carbon Black, too. Price: US$325, available from the Time+Tide Shop

Orient Bambino 38 Small Seconds

If you spend any times on watch forums, the question “what should I get for my first dress watch?” and the answer “Orient Bambino” come up often enough that some boards probably issue instant bans. It’s for good reason, however, as the Bambino is just about the best-value dress watch out there. You’ve got the brand name, in-house movement with hacking, hand-winding, and 40 hours of power reserve, but above all, that pretty domed dial and compact dimensions. The latest small-seconds equipped model is potentially the classiest yet, especially in that creamy colourway with blue hands. While it’s not as affordable (yet) as some of its older variations, it still remains a great value proposition. Price: US$365

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm

I recently had a conversation with a fellow collector that put into perspective just how significant the impact of the Hamilton Khaki Field has been. They said: “Whichever field watch review you read, it’s always ‘compared to the Khaki Field’ or ‘similarly to the Khaki Field'”, portraying just how much this watch captured enthusiasts’ hearts. Available in a multitude of colour and strap options, my preference is the manually wound Khaki that I selected here, but you can’t go wrong with any of the military inspired designs from the Khaki Field collection, whether it be the Automatic, or King, or Titanium, or Officer, or Aviation, or Expedition, or Murph… You get the gist. Price: US$595, available from the Time+Tide Shop

Seiko King Turtle SRPE03

The Seiko spot on this list could’ve gone to many pieces, but my feeling is that the King Turtle represents the best value of them all. Shaped like a classic Turtle and still powered by the 4R36 (21,600 vph, 40h power reserve), the SRPE03 and SRPE05 are upgraded with ceramic bezel inserts and improved bezel action, better lume, and sapphire crystal, finally ending the tumultuous love story of Seiko and Hardlex in its entry-level divers. The watches are also ISO-certified, allowing them to carry the “diver’s 200m” designation on the new waffle-patterned dials. Price: US$625

Baltic Hermétique Tourer

One could argue that Baltic has one of the firmest grasps on the sub-US$1,000 category, with compelling offerings in dress, dive, chronograph, and everyday categories. The amazing micro-rotor MR01 narrowly missed out on getting a spot on this list, narrowly edged out by the Hermétique Tourer, simply for its greater versatility. Baltic went to the trouble of developing a new 37mm case, with a flush crown and 150 metres of water resistance, housing the Miyota 9039, and still fitting all of Baltic’s bracelet options. For US$700, it’s one of the strongest entrants on this list. Price: US$700, available from the Time+Tide Shop

Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Spider

Nivada Grenchen is the oddball vintage brand that perhaps doesn’t get the appreciation it deserves. Now revived and thriving, the brand is paying homage to all of those designs of old, including the most famous Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver, but also oddities like this, inspired by the terrifying sea spider whose name it bears. The re-release of the Antarctic Spider model itself came after a fan shared a photo of a vintage example, closely following its design cues but upgraded with modern specs like a sapphire crystal and Soprod movement. If you’re looking this one up, make sure to include the brand name in the search bar – the twelve-legged creature is truly nightmarish. Price: US$845, available from the Time+Tide Shop

Christopher Ward C65 Dune Automatic

Christopher Ward is the brand that can claim the title of the original microbrands, a success story that has developed from three-handed divers to in-house developed movements and chiming complications. The C65 is part of the brand’s Aquitaine collection, and yet another example of a sporty-leaning daily driver, a combination that makes sense in a category when you need to stretch the dollar as far as possible. The Sellita SW200 in the back is among the best entry-level Swiss offerings for its affordable serviceability and reliability, and the dial is a result of Christopher Ward’s long-pursued efforts to land on a consistent branding direction. Nailed it with this one, folks. Price: US$895

Studio Underd0g 02Series Field

Studio Underd0g designs perhaps aren’t the first thing you think of when looking for a versatile daily, but the brand’s 02Series Field changes that. Sure, you’ve still got a healthy dose of irreverence with three full-lume dial pieces, one of them a yellow-pink gradient, but there’s also a black dial three-hander that wouldn’t look out of place no matter the occasion. The sapphire disk sandwich dial construction is a unique differentiating factor, the overall package feeling a tad more premium when compared to the watermelon-dialled chronos you’ve come to know and love. Price: US$900, available from the Time+Tide Discovery Studio

Seiko Presage Classic Series

I tried my best not to include another Seiko on this list, but microbrands and rising prices aside, it’s still hard to look past the brand at the sub-US$1,000 mark. The Presage Classic Series may not be the most hyped Seiko release in recent memory, but the look and specifications remind me of the much-loved and now-discontinued SARB033 and its derivatives. Granted, in those days you could pick them up for about a third of the price of the Classic Series, but it’s undeniable that these have an elevated presence when compared to their Presage predecessors. The dials are inspired by textured textiles, and as it often is the case, the copper pink is the pick of the bunch, powered by the 6R55 movement with 72 hours of power reserve. Price: US$950

Autodromo Group B

While you’ll struggle to find a non-Seagull powered mechanical chronograph at this price point, that doesn’t mean that all of us racing enthusiasts can’t find a suitable watch, and we have Autodromo to thank for that. While most of the brand’s collection is somehow motorsport-related, no watch better captures the colour scheme and era of ’80s design than the Group B. Inspired by the most dangerous era of rallying, the Autodromo Group B brings the pastel colours to dashboard-inspired dials, with only a boxy hatchback with widened wheel arches missing from the picture. Price: US$975