10 of the best sector dial watches

Borna Bošnjak

Among the more distinguished watch design languages was the Art Deco period, birthing iconic designs such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and Cartier Tank, alongside lesser-known but clearly of-the-period pieces akin to the slant-dialled Vacheron Constantin 1921. This period was not just one of refinement and apparent squaring-off in case design, it also ushered in the era of the sector dial. Often referred to as scientific or railroad dials, the names referred to the accurately distinguished units of time, helpful when needing a precise measurement, and the look of the track-like printing. Though early examples date back to the turn of the 20th century, the sector dial closely followed Art Deco’s rise to popularity, bursting onto the scene in the Roaring ’20s and the not so memorable Great Depression of the 1930s. From Tissot to Rolex and IWC to Patek Philippe, nearly every manufacturer was looking to get a slice (sector?) of the cake, with these pieces serving as inspiration to many of the modern pieces that we’ll cover in this list.

Merkur Pierre Paulin Sector

If you’re not quite sure whether the whole sector thing is for you, a great place to just dip your toes is Merkur’s Pierre Paulin Salmon Sector. For those who haven’t traversed the oft-murky waters of AliExpress yet, Merkur is among the best-regarded affordable microbrands around, offering great specs for very little money – around US$100 should you catch one on sale. At 38.5mm in diameter and with a lovely domed piece of mineral crystal, it’s a really attractive proposition, especially considering how well-finished the dial is in proportion to the price. Named after the French interior designer, the Sector sports a mix of circularly brushed, frosted and azurage finishes, topped off by a lovely set of skeletonised blue hands. Price: US$119

Baltic MR Roulette

Yes, the Baltic MR is part of quite a few “best of” lists, but it fully gets there on merit. The case size is a modernised 37mm, especially compared to the low-to-mid 30mm range it would likely be in the ’30s, and the MR Roulette gives it a sector option too. Powered by an affordable micro-rotor movement, it’s become one of Baltic’s best-sellers for its design and unique movement at the price point. While it’s perhaps not the most traditional sector dial example, it certainly is very pretty. Price: €545 (~US$600) from the T+T Shop

Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy

Furlan Marri is just about the hottest micro/independent brand out there. Whether it’s the mechaquartz takes on vintage chronograph references or the sector-dialled mechanical pieces, the level of quality truly rivals brands at multiples of FM’s retail prices. It’s the latter collection that’s today’s focus: after spending some time with the limited edition Black Sector ref. 2116-A and the three non-limited dial variations with open casebacks showing off the LJP movement within, designing our own limited edition to celebrate 10 years of existence was a no-brainer. So we decided to outfit the Outback Elegy with one of the best brown and/or sector dials I’ve seen at any price point. Price: CHF 1,500 (~US$1,750), from the T+T Shop

Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds

Raymond Weil was perhaps an unexpected winner at the 2023 GPHGs, as the brand’s Millesime Small Seconds was rarely mentioned before then, and for seemingly no reason. The excellent specs and affordable price point for a watch from an established Swiss brand should’ve cemented the Millesime as a fan-favourite right out of the gates. Nevertheless, Raymond Weil has followed up the successful GPHG models with a chronograph and the denim blue model above, all with well-considered layouts and subtle vintage cues. Price: CHF 1,895 (~US$2,200)

Longines Heritage Classic

Longines has long championed the affordable, well-made vintage reissue, and its Heritage Classic may just be one of the best attempts. Essentially a one-to-one reproduction of a watch from 1934 (the original sitting in the Longines museum), it grew a little, but not too much, coming in at 38.5mm for that lovely stepped case. The dial is the main attraction, and tastefully done, reproducing the original so closely that it includes the cut-off 6 numeral and the line bisecting the Longines logo. Price: US$2,425

Omega Specialties Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition

I’m really glad that Omega decided to drop this release just days before this article went live, as it would be a shame not to be able to include one of these CK 859 reissues. Not only is it another example of the 9k Bronze Gold case (a viable in-between non-precious metals and 18k gold), Omega also brings back the solid silver guilloché dial which is an absolute winner. Together with the vintage typeface and Omega logo, the look is tied together by the circularly brushed outer track and stylised sword hands. Price: US$12,000

Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-winding

Apart from being the entry-level offering from a Holy Trinity brand, the Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix cements the notion that there are still underappreciated watches to be discovered in the back catalogues of big box brands. Admittedly, Vacheron Constantin hasn’t paid nearly as much attention to this collection since its release as with others, but that doesn’t mean the Fiftysix is not a compelling choice. For just a smidge over the retail of a Rolex GMT, you get a ValFleurier-made movement with really handsome decoration, powering an equally handsome, everyday watch contender. Price: US$12,700

Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin

The story of Laurent Ferrier is a downright inspiring one, and given his nearly four-decade-long tenure at Patek Philippe, it’s no wonder the man’s watches are as classy and well-designed as they are. The Classic Origin shape debuted as a decennary celebration, inspired by the GPHG-winning Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral. All the signature elements are there, from the elongated Assegai hands, tapering indices, and curvaceous case. Flip the titanium case over, and you’ll be met with the contemporary decoration of the LF116.01, but swapping the brand’s usual micro-rotor for a manual-wound experience. Price: CHF 33,000 (~US$38,200)

Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II

Rexhep Rexhepi has become a household name in the independent space, cutting his teeth at Patek Philippe and BNB Concept, and bringing that knowledge to his own brand, Akrivia. While every Akrivia watch is quite special, the level of finishing of the first Chronomètre Contemporain cemented Rexhepi’s positioning as one of the best finishers in the business. The Chronomètre Contemporain II only elevated this – but we’re here to talk dials, not movements. Thankfully, the fired enamel surface with the unique sector layout and heat-purpled hands is quite something as well. Price: CHF 125,000 (~US$141,000)

T+T Timeless Pick: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date

The Master Control Date by Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the most well-recognised sector dials on a modern watch. The blued syringe hands add another dash of vintage to the dial and nicely complement the blue highlights along the minute track. It’s classy at 39mm, from a brand that was there in the golden days of the sector dial in the ’30s and ’40s. I should also add that it’s a great implementation of a date wheel in a sector dial, which is a tripping point for some brands. This JLC has now been discontinued and can be found on the secondary market for right around A$10,000.